Issue # 150
March 21, 2004

My Favorite Things Part I - Quiet, Beauty And Solitude

I think the one thing that makes the Ozarks stand out in my mind is the large tracts of public lands that surround me and the relatively small population of this area. The Buffalo River National Park, the Ozark National Forest, the Ouachita National Forest and two Wilderness areas are within short driving distance from my home. Now, I am the type of person that likes to spend a lot of my time alone. Being able to get out when I want, and be out enjoying the natural beauty of the area without having to share it with a crowd appeals to my solitary side. When I get in the mood I like to go where I don't see or hear anyone. That is one reason why I stay at River Spirit Retreat a lot.
River Spirit Retreat sits on 117 acres of pristine land, carefully tended by Ann Lasater, along the seldom explored Little Buffalo River. Of course the Little Buffalo is a main tributary of the Buffalo River and incidentally, can be floated in high water by kayaks. One of my favorite drives is the drive along the dirt road to Murray Valley and River Spirit Retreat following the Little Buffalo upriver. Moving along at 15 mph, looking out over the tended fields towards the high bluffs, colored red and yellow and grey. Often deer can be seen in the fields, grazing in the early morning sun. Just something you don't see living near a city. Far removed from the noise of civilization, River Spirit Retreat offers the guest an opportunity to experience the natural splendor of the Ozarks in a remote, yet thoroughly modern way.
The open, south facing, full glass front of the main house at River Spirit Retreat allows nature to flood into my senses and I often sit there or on the large deck, which is accessible from just about anywhere inside the lodge. I enjoy just sitting and listening, or reading while basking in the morning sun. In the spring and early summer you can hear sounds of the Little Buffalo making its way down river.
Younger folk may find that the wide expanses of public lands allows them to put their gear on their backs and take off to find adventure and solitude, and I can understand that, since I too once did that. However, now I am just an old guy and a little out of shape, I enjoy the luxury of a comfortable bed after a day of hiking in the wilderness and when possible a soak in a hot tub. River Spirit provides both! The master bedroom suite has an extremely comfortable, large bed and also a wood burning stove for the romantic touch, plus access to the deck and large windows to look out of.
Sitting in the hot tub at night, with a glass of wine, watching the moon rise above you, the stars slowly moving across the clear, crisp night sky. Well that's another of my favorite activities. You simply cannot appreciate the beauty of the heavens unless you go somewhere where there is NO light. Only then can you see the sky as perhaps our ancestors saw it. River Spirit Retreat is just such a place. Even when your inside, the completely open front provides a night view that few other places can match.
One of my weaknesses is swimming in the summertime. From May through Mid-October I am always in search of a clear, clean swimming hole. One of my favorites belongs to River Spirit Retreat. About a third of a mile upriver from the main lodge, along a delightful walk up the Little Buffalo, lies a clear, quiet pool. There, the water is warmed by the sun which travels lengthwise over the pool and provides a wonderful spot for enjoying the natural beauty of the Ozarks and it's one of the cleanest rivers that you can find in the country to swim in. I have often sat there along the river, in the sun, simply soaking it all up. When I get too warm I simply plunge into the river to cool off. Ann also keeps a few air mattresses there, so guests can float around in the river in the afternoons. I usually take a small cooler with some gatoraids and a lunch and spend hours there.

A favorite hike of mine is to take off for the swimming hole and then just keep going along the bank of the Little Buffalo. It is easy walking and the sights are quite breathtaking. Large boulders litter the way and provide nice, small waterfalls as the water moves down the river. The sun is with you most of the way and even on a winter day the walk is quite pleasant. One day I saw a beaver making a vain attempt to build a dam. I sat and watched for awhile then moved on. Of course our area provides many such opportunities to hike. Whether it's on the Buffalo River, the Little Buffalo River, Richland Creek or any other of the many creeks, searching for waterfalls, or hiking in the winter or spring to the tops of the mountains for that open, panoramic view, or in the fall to see the colors, the Ozarks has it all!
Lots of folks have written to me asking what type of gear I use. When I go out walking alone in the woods (which I do not recommend to anyone) or travel around for a week I make certain to take the appropriate gear for that trip. My favorite backpacks are Jansport and I have three of them. One is a travel bag which I can pack a weeks worth of clothes in, and has a detachable day pack. I also have a day pack with two side compartments that allows me to carry two one-liter gatoraids. Recently, some dear friends of mine gave me a new Jansport PC pack which I use as a day pack and everyday carry about. All of them have leather bottoms and are extremely durable. Inside whatever pack I choose for the day I always carry a first aid kit. I carry a compass and map of the area I am in just in case I get confused. An Arkansas Gazetteer and Atlas is a wonderful resource for topo maps, GPS coordinates, and finding your way around on the dirt roads. I have spare matches and tinder in a waterproof bag, along with tp, duct tape (which is invaluable in removing ticks or repairing a broken shoe along the way), Swiss Army knife, a thermal blanket and a poncho, as well as extra clothes appropriate to the season. I usually have a few bags of peanuts and a couple slimjims in my pack for a snack. I always carry a towel just in case I fall into the water while crossing a creek or the river. Also I have a Camelbak hydration day pack, and when I don't want to carry much except water I use it. Mostly though, I use a day pack since I normally will carry a digital camera with me. My current camera is a Sony DSC-D700, along with extra batteries, and external flash w/extra batteries and extra memory cards. This camera has proved both durable and flexible, taking nice pictures of the natural Ozark scenery as well as inside shots of the places that I do reviews of. I use a waterproof and shockproof Pelican case for transporting my camera. I also try and remember to take a cell phone with me, just in case someone gets hurt and help is needed. I don't normally carry my Razorback quilt with me, but it sure made a nice backdrop! Go Hogs!
River Spirit is the kind of place that you go to with your family, friends, or just yourself and have a blast and never leave the place for your entire vacation. Take a hike in the morning, pack up a lunch and meander down to the swimming hole for an afternoon of fun in the sun, then head back up to the lodge for a nice supper on the deck and some star watching. Once the kids are in bed (and believe me they will be after a day like that) you can slip into the hot tub with a glass of wine and relax with that special someone. All without hearing the sound of a car or seeing another person for your entire stay. If your the kind of person who wants to use their vacation to truly get away from it all, then take advantage of River Spirit Retreat's unique location to relax and enjoy the wondrous natural beauty of the Ozark mountains. I bet you and your family will have a vacation to remember!
River Spirit Retreat
Host: Ann Lasater
HCR 72, Box 85
Parthenon, Arkansas USA 72666
PH: 870-446-5642
Email River Spirit Lodge